On the morning of Saturday, the 27th, I had been pined down at camp 3 by high winds for two days. Camp 3 in is in a wind-exposed location, and for the previous 48 hours I’d had to go out and dig out every two to three hours from the wind-drifted snow that built up around my tent. In the morning the wind had finally died down, and I had decided to push on to camp 4 and started packing up to make the move up to camp 4 — but then I got an updated forecast that predicted heavy snow later Saturday and through Sunday morning. With the delay at camp 3, I was running low on provisions, so if I couldn’t make the peak push by Sunday morning I would be forced to turn back. The forecast for the rest of the week, though, looked very promising… and I made the reluctant decision to retreat to base camp, with the plan to start back up again reprovisioned on Sunday morning.
So here I am Saturday evening, back at base camp. The forecast is now for the winds to stay relatively calm and for clear skies for the rest of the week. So my plan is start back up the mountain in the morning and make my summit push on Wednesday. I’m beginning to wonder how many times I’ll have to climb this mountain before it allows me it’s summit.