Update from the road

Hey all!

It’s December 2nd and I’m sitting in a Starbucks outside of Red Rocks, Nevada. A storm is rolling through and I’m struggling to find the motivation to get out and train/climb in this wet weather.

I returned from Nepal in October after my second 8000m summit on Manaslu. Climbing solo and without supplemental O2. With time to reflect on Manaslu, what inspires and motivates me in the 8000m arena is changing. Before Cho Oyu in the Autumn of 2013, just making the summit in what I consider a purer style – solo / nO’s – captivated me. It drove me to train hard and prepare. After Manaslu my 3rd 8000m expedition, I find myself no longer content with this style. Now sparking my interest is adding new components to my future expeditions. Either a non-standard route or a single push ascent (BC to BC).

This spring Annapurna seems to be the likely 8000m peak I’ll be climbing. Whether or not I’ll be adding either of these components to my ascent of Annapurna will remain unknown. Until I’ve arrived at Base Camp and scoped the possible lines / condition of the mountain. Of course, I will continue in the solo / nO’s style of previous expeditions at a minimum. As I enjoy the flexibility, simplicity and challenge.

Since returning from Nepal this fall I’ve spent most of my time on the road. Climbing in Red Rocks, Joshua Tree and the Eastern Sierra. Soon I head North in search of decent ice, before departing to Argentina December 26th. I’ll be down there guiding two back-to-back Aconcagua trips for Rainier Mountaineering Inc.

Well, that’s my status update from Rainy Las Vegas!

– Alex

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2 responses to “Update from the road

  1. Wow, Alex!

    I am blown away by your accomplishments and aspirations. Nothing short of amazing and inspiring. I truly appreciate being a bit “on the inside” or “along for the adventure” as you are great about sharing your journals and your emotions. I know you will train and focus and concentrate on safety. Remember Dave Hahn and his patience. Remember Ed Viesturs and his will to climb another day. Not only do you have to get up, you have to get down. And you can always go back. Re-read Herzog’s “Annapurna” and Bonington’s account on Annapurna and of course, Ed’s. None of that history can do anything but help your mental preparation I will be thinking about you in the Spring, but as importantly, this winter when you will be down in Argentina. I seriously thought about signing up for the Aconcagua climb with you. But I have unavoidable conflicts this winter. I am hoping to do a North Cascades alpine climb this summer (unless I get Rainier fever again and go begging for a slot) and hope to do more rock climbing in the Sawtooths and around Ketchum. And if I am still fit when I am 66 and 1-2 in January 2016, maybe I will go on an expedition in Argentina…..

    Take care and thanks for the update.


    Sent from my iPad Jim Daverman


    • Hey Jim!

      Always appreciate hearing from you! Yup Annapurna will take a level of precision and I enjoy training towards that challenge. Becoming fit enough to strike within a 24 to 30 hour time frame I believe will be key (BC to BC) and as you mentioned patience.

      From what I’ve seen you’ll be sending high peaks for the next decade easy!

      – Alex

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