5/3 Well, I’m back up at the North Col, i think it’s around 23k or 23.5k. Something like that, personally I find knowing every inch of the route a total snooze. It is what it is, the summit is that way. Folks tend to cling to information out here…
The mountain is in control, always will be, I’ll do my best to stay outta its way… Rule number one, stay alert and aware of what the mountain is telling you – and don’t ever be complacent – complacency can be deadly.
Today, 5/3, I cruised all the way through to the Col from ABC improving my time to 2hr 7mins. Its good to see that I’m strengthening living at 21k ABC.
Life without a cook has been chill, I’ve always hated the colonial style service at Base Camps. Sherpas serving me dinner has always made me uncomfortable, Im a broke mountain bum, not some high profile executive needing to be waited upon. Unfortunately, during my previous expeditions as an outsider I’ve never in a place to change this, as the team Ive bought onto always enjoy this level of service.
This morning the Sherpa showed me how to make Chappatti and a quick crash course on Dal Bhat. They will also be leaving ABC soon, so it’ll be down to myself and a 22yr old Tibetan named Dunzhu….
Yesterday I touched 7600m then descend back to ABC, it was slightly irritating returing to ABC a little tired and to have no food ready. Now that Im cracking away at the upper mountain maintaining enough caloric intake is an important part of maintaining strength…
The forecast was for squirrely weather, and while I do need to sleep 2 nights at 7900m C2. I also want to maintain 20 total digits, which requires a more confident forecast. Now that I’ve touched 7600m I’ll be looking for the weather to sleep at 7900m C2. After which I’ll be fully prepped for the summit push.
An additional consideration is that you dont want to sleep the 2 nights at C2 too early then wait two weeks for the summit push. The commercial team I’ve bought into further complicates things as they typically summit earlier in worse weather than a no oxegen climber would. It would be so wonderful to be able to afford my own permit and play the game exactly as I see fit, without these outside pressures and the unwelcome influence on my climbing style!
One day maybe!
Anyways, I was pretty proud of my Yak n Cheese creation I made the other day. Standard Mac n Cheese supplemented with dried yak meat, Yak n Cheese. Had it like two days straight… yum.
Last night I cooked tortellini with pesto sauce and spicy french fries for Dunzhu and I. It was funny to watch him sorta fuss over it, and dance around taking the first bite – unsure of the foreign food. After the first bite he let out a low Ahhhhhh in surprise at the taste, a totally rad experience.
Looking ahead to the upper Mountain and my plan to sleep 2 nights at C2 the 9th and 10th are looking promising for this. Those dates would also be good for a summit push which my gut tells me could come earlier then the 20th. We shall see!