Everest Update


View from Camp 2 to Everest Peak

May 15 – 20 days at 21,000ft or above, don’t they go by in an apoxic blink… Who am I?! Where am I?! YOU’Re Not My SuPeRVisoR! Wait what… I’ve gotta go down to 17k ft. and clear my head 🙂

It’s that time of the season, all eyes on the weather forecast. Pick your day, pick your fate!

Seriously though, has it really been 10 days since I’ve posted… my bad. Blaming it on the altitude… all the days blend together here.

As I spoke about in my last post, the 9th and the 10th were perfect days for a stay at Camp 2. So yes, I went up and spent two days at C2 25,100ft/7700m. Not much to report; I felt good up there and it snowed almost constantly but no wind which is extremely important. The nights were long and really stingingly cold. On the 10th I touched 8000m or 8100m, I didnt bring an altimeter with me. The exact height doesn’t matter really; I was just looking to stretch the legs and the lungs during my full day at C2.

One thing that totally struck me at Camp 2, is how crucial the carry day from C2 at 25000ft/7700m to C3 at 27000ft/8300m is going to be! Holy smokes! The carry to C2 was bad enough but a carry to 27000ft – then to wake up at 1am or whatever and do the summit day… that’s likely to be a brutal couple of days.

I think the reason it never occurred to me was because I just figured that’s just what everyone does… ya nope. It’s Everest and everyone cheats… at least a little. The few other folks trying to summit without supplemental oxygen have a support team that is using bottled oxygen to assist the no oxygen climber. Soooo, they are climbing with no oxygen but their support team is huffing oxygen like scuba divers, setting/stocking camps for the big bad nOs climber… Its Everest… everyone cheats.

I came here to get an answer to a question, not just put the no oxygen tag on my climb. (as he steps off soap box)…

Right now I’m in 17k Base camp, I took the advice of a few friends who told me I’d feel amazing. The two days I’ve spent here have actually been a nice respite, the days are warm and the nights aren’t so cold. And, of course, the air at 17k feels thicker. I’m happy I took their advice. I dropped a cough I got at 8000m and a retina edema in my right eye seems better (blurry spot from a burst blood vessel).

The team I bought onto is looking at the 20th for their summit bid. I’m favoring the 23rd right now, warmer and less wind. Many of the teams seem to be thinking of going on the 20th, so that should clear the mountain out.

Obviously, these dates are still a ways out so things may shift. Today, May 16th, I came back up to ABC at 21k, so that I’m situated to take advantage of the best weather window in the next 5-10 days

4 responses to “Everest Update

  1. Good luck Alex, wishing you all the best with what the next week throws at you. It is a joy following your blog. Love the pictures. Be Safe!

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