Update 5/22 –
The struggles at Camp 2, high winds, lots of snow blowing around, white out conditions were just the beginning of a long, hard day today. As I mentioned in my previous post, if the weather didn’t break this could have been game over for me… Large teams may try to make the move in these conditions but as a solo climber the risk of pushing to 27K is just outside my comfort level. I thought the weather might pass… but my gut was not so optimistic though. These conditions hit camp around 2 am – which is an odd time, most weather here comes and goes as afternoon convection flows.
Update later on that day,
Holy smokes was that awful! I just completed carrying a 35+ pound pack to 27,000ft./8300m in sideways snow. Rumor was there were no tent spots open at 27k camp so I paired up – thankfully – with buddies Topo and Carla from Ecuador and their Superman-like Sherpa Pemba. But it turns out that 4 people in what is a 3 person tent is pretty uncomfortable… especially when 30% of the tent is hanging off the edge of the platform. Be that as it may, it’s essential to try and get some sack time now.