Update 6/9

Hey all,

So I’ve been getting some questions on when I’ll be posting an update and a full run down of the events from my summit push and ultimately my desperate retreat from Camp 3 at 27,000ft/8300m. I’ve sat myself down in a local café to finish it up, hopefully I’ll have it posted by this afternoon.

As for where I am currently, I returned to California on the 4th and am staying with family while I finish recovering, hopefully by the end of the month I’ll be fully healed up. I’ve been speaking with a specialist looking at what caused this incident and how I can prevent or mitigate the impact of something like this happening again in the future. Currently my condition is pretty good, I’ve still got a small cough and my energy still isn’t 100%. My lungs are clear so the cough is probably due to a secondary infection that my doctors think might have been in my system prior to my summit push.

Anyway, my plan is to have my insights regarding my summit push posted by this afternoon. It’s probably healthy for me to write down the events – and how I felt at the time – but I can’t say I’m enjoying the reliving of it; which is the main reason behind the delay in posting I suppose. Also I’ll post up some videos in which I’m obviously HAPE’ing the fuck out, they’re sorta interesting for sure.

What’s next? Well, I’m looking forward to getting back at it! This summer I’ll be guiding for Sierra Mountaineering International in the Sierra Nevada – my home range. I’m really looking forward to getting back to work! Also, I got the all clear to return to the Himalaya from my specialists –  so I’m thinking about my next project; maybe Shisha Pangma by a new route / link up which I’ve previously climbed on to 6500m… After two seasons now of being shut down, Annapurna and the earthquake then Everest and the HAPE out I would be lying if I said I wasn’t looking for some redemption up there.

For now, I’ll get back to penning the full run down of events from Everest and it should be up later today.

  • Alex

4 responses to “Update 6/9

  1. Glad you are feeling better, Alex. I was really worried when nothing was blogged for days despite your intention to blog daily. Sure happy you got down and out. Pretty terrifying experience. I read about this on your blog and on Alan Arquette’s blog as well. Scary that there were so many HAPE incidents on Evwrest this year. Yours certainly was one of the better outcomes. Were you in the tent at 23,000 feet with Topo and Carla when this all started? And given the shape you are in, to have it this bad at 23,000 feet leaves me a little spooked given that I am going to Acncagua in December. No Rainier this summer. But plenty of rock climbing in Idaho. Get well.

  2. Hi Alex. Really happy that you are recovering fast and already found motivation for new projects. I started to watch Himalaya Expedition Videos for a while and especially yours were one of the most interresting. Meanwhile my girlfriend is already upset und that i once, after my hard pro cycling career, wanna climb a 8k summit also 😉 hehe….. Thanks to you mate for that effort 😉 cant await more postings and video material. Best Regards from the hearth of the alps, tyrol, Austria. Manfred

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