IMG_1142Alexander Barber was born and raised in Southern California. In his youth, it was the time spent fly fishing the Sierra Nevada that turned his interest to the mountains. He first climbed local Mt. San Antonio after a botched winter solo attempt on Mt. Whitney in his teens. When prompted on why he climbs mountains, Alex replied, “I’ve always lived as if life begins where our comfort zones end. I’ve always been drawn to things that inspire and challenge me.” At age 27, after having worked as a Mountain Guide for Rainier Mountaineering since his early 20’s, Alex now focuses all his time pursuing his personal climbing objectives. Which are 8000m Himalayan peaks, climbing solo and without bottled oxygen, the purist form of high altitude mountaineering.

“I’ve been asked what it feels like for everything to culminate, to be on top. That feeling of accomplishment or exhilaration – what was it like? But I think what draws me isn’t that singular moment on the summit or any feeling of exhilaration from being there. Instead it’s a quieter and constant sense of contentment that comes from the simplicity of mountaineering, the journey along the way and being surrounded by extraordinary beauty that challenges you to conquer – not the mountain – but yourself.” – Alexander Barber.

  • 42 ascents of Mt. Rainier
  • Everest Northside 29,029 /8848m (Solo / No O’s – high pt. 27,000ft)
  • Annapurna I 26,545’/8091m (Solo / No O’s – high pt. 7000m)
  • Manaslu 26,759’/8156m (Solo / No O’s – Summit Oct. 1 2014)
  • Cho Oyu 26,906’/8201m (Solo / No O’s – Summit Oct. 1 2013)
  • Shisha Pangma 26,289’/8013m (NS)
  • Tsergo Ri 16,404′
  • 2 ascents of Cerro Aconcagua 22,841′
  • Speed ascent of Ameghino 19,556′ (C1 – summit) 2hrs 45mins
  • Pico De Orizaba 18,700′
  • Iztaccihuatl 17,159′
  • Extensive climbs throughout the Sierra Nevada and Pacific Northwest
  • Rock and Ice climbs throughout North America

Mountain Guide for:

Rainier Mountaineering Inc. 2012 – 2015

Sierra Mountaineering International 2016 – present

Additional Expertise: Wilderness First Responder, Emergency medical technician – Basic, MPIC, AIARE Avalanche Level 1 and 2, American Mountain Guides Association Member, Leave No Trace Certified

7 responses to “BIO

  1. Pleased to see that young men still aspire to do great things. Best of luck to you in all your adventures and aspirations. I will watch from my quiet and mundane life… lead on young man.

  2. Alex, you wrote in your BIO, “what draws me is a quieter and constant sense of contentment that comes from the simplicity of mountaineering…” Well, that’s exactly what I learned from you in my brief moments on the Muir snow field with you as my guide, and chatting with you while preparing for Mt Rainier. I couldn’t sleep at all while on the 5 day climb (May 27-31) My mind was far from singular! The night of the summit, I was thinking about what you mentioned, specifically your dad teaching you to be in the moment, then I went into a deep sleep! I felt strong getting up at midnight and ready to climb! They way you live your laugh is inspiring. Living in the moment is a weakness in my life. I summited Rainier because I learned it for just a few hours! Crazy!
    Thank you for guiding people and introducing them to mountaineering. I’ll have to teach that to my kid, he constantly wants to be in the mountains. Thank you again.

    -Mark Pogue

  3. Hey Alex
    I enjoyed browsing through your website , very interesting .
    I met your mom recently at Peters canyon while going for a run.
    Diana and I hiked up to the Hoernli Hut
    A few times in 2005/07, love Zermatt
    I understand you want to climb Mount Everest , I am impressed and very exited for you.
    Be safe, always!
    God bless you

    • Thanks Horst, appreciate the kind words. Zermatt is quite the place and the Matterhorn is such a impressive mtn. Yeah I leave for Everest in a few weeks, very amped to try the North face route.

  4. Hello Alex,

    I am a young climber and I just wanted to let you know that your climbing achievements and, most importantly, the style in which you have achieved them has inspired me to continue training hard and push my limits. While it is easy for me to find climbers of the past to serve as role models, it is wonderful to see a climber active right now that not only guides on my state’s glorious mountain but who adheres to such a pure style. You are creating a great name for modern-day American alpinists. I hope and dream that one day I will be able to maintain the standard of American alpinism in the strong way that you currently are doing. Wishing you a safe and enjoyable adventure on Everest’s North Face (although you may already be at Base Camp). Cannot wait to hear and see more of your climbing! Keep rocking! Maybe I will run into you this summer up on Rainier.

    Thank you for your inspiration!

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